David Hockney's approach to fashion was as audacious as his art. The painter, who died June 11 at 88, refused to accept that men's clothing needed to be dull or restrained. Whether he appeared in pistachio-coloured sport coats, yellow galoshes that impressed King Charles, or lime-green shirts, Hockney proved that sartorial boldness could look effortless and natural rather than contrived or absurd.
Throughout his life, Hockney remained one of fashion's most influential figures precisely because he never tried to be fashionable. His signature elements — blonde hair, substantial spectacles, impish grins — anchored an ever-evolving wardrobe that shifted alongside his artistic practice. From knit ties and V-neck sweaters in his twenties at the Royal College of Art in London, he progressed to primary-colour cardigans, gingham driving caps, and blazers so threadbare they seemed held together purely by conviction.
Designers have long cited Hockney as inspiration when attempting to introduce colour into menswear collections. Yet Hockney was never interested in altering silhouettes or following fashion rules — he simply chose pieces that pleased him and wore them with an assurance that made the unconventional seem inevitable. Charlie Porter, a fashion writer, noted that Hockney possessed the rare ability to make accessories that would appear ridiculous on others — foppish bow ties, overflowing pocket squares — look completely organic. This confidence extended to his entire presentation.
Much of this fearlessness stemmed from Hockney's early openness about his identity. He came out during an era when such honesty was uncommon, supported by his father's counsel to never worry about neighbours' opinions. This freedom from self-suppression flowed into every aspect of his self-presentation, allowing his wardrobe to become an honest reflection of his personality rather than a compromise with social expectations.
As Hockney aged, his style continued evolving rather than calcifying into nostalgia. In 2023, he voiced frustration with contemporary menswear, declaring "I hate what men wear today. It's just sports clothes. Where's all the style?" — then promptly purchased nine new suits. Michael Hill, owner of London menswear brand Drake's, observed that Hockney's genius lay in understanding classical tailoring while completely subverting it through colour and attitude. When the designer gifted Hockney a colour-blocked cardigan, the resulting photograph of the artist wearing the technicoloured knit became emblematic of his enduring influence on how men might dare to dress.
