KUALA LUMPUR, April 3 — Cheras, especially along the densely populated outskirts of Kuala Lumpur, is changing rapidly.
Glassy mixed-use developments are rising at breakneck speed, their towering forms casting long shadows over the businesses and patrons that have long defined the area.
Yet, a few strongholds remain. One of them is Taman Yulek, now known as Taman Cheras, home to the famed Yulek Morning Market.
While I wouldn’t mind something being done about the dreadful traffic and relentless double-parking along Jalan Kaskas leading up to the market, it’s a sight I firmly associate with the character of old, lived-in neighbourhoods.
The decades-old four-storey flats in the surrounding lanes only add to that sense of place.
Soldier through a short, sardine-tin stretch of road and you’ll find yourself on Lorong Durian, where Ah Sang Teochew Restaurant stands.
The name of the game is low, slow Teochew-style braising, and the game is duck, chicken and pork.
According to both my colleague (who tipped me off) and a laminated Guang Ming Daily article from 2011, the business dates back to the 1980s, when the current owner’s father started a roadside stall.
It later moved into the nearby Kedai Kopi Say Hoi on Jalan Kaskas before shifting again in 1995 to Restoran Tai Kee, a corner lot on Lorong Durian.
In early 2023, Ah Sang finally moved into a shop of their own just a few doors down from Tai Kee.
The shop may be relatively new, but I appreciate that there are few attempts to spruce things up beyond the necessary.
There’s a frankness to it, a matter-of-fact approach that suggests faith in the product, as if to say, “We are what we are. Take it or leave it.”
True to form, there are no recommendations and no upselling.
“Leng zai, soeng sik me ah?” (“What do you want to eat?”) is the only question you’ll get, and your answer should include some combination of braised duck, pork (spare bits too), salted vegetables, and plain old porridge to wash it all down.
It’s tempting to go straight for the braised meat, but don’t miss out on the ‘assam’ mustard green. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Before we get to the main event, there’s a scene-stealing turn from the assam mustard green (RM8).
A sharp, tangy stew of mustard greens and tamarind, it’s often a way to repurpose leftover roast pork, occasionally duck.
It’s an uncommon pairing with Teochew braised duck, perhaps a nod to the owner’s Hokkien heritage, which is mentioned in the clipping.
It’s worth noting that in the same article, he is quoted as saying that authenticity and tradition are not his claims to make. What matters most is simply making the food delicious.
And delicious it is. A righteous balance of pungent and piquant, lip-smacking goodness where braised duck, mustard greens, dried chillies, and tamarind come together in an irresistible bowl.
Each spoonful is sour, spicy, and just a touch sweet. The trip here might be worth it for this alone.
Braised pork is tender, and benefits from a glaze of liquid gold. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Onto the main event. Half a duck (RM45) is ideal for sharing among three, along with a small portion of braised pork (RM12) and pork scalp (RM12).
The duck, braised to tender perfection, pulls off the bone with ease, while the pork is equally tender.
The scalp — or cheek skin, if you prefer — offers a gentle yet snappy mouthfeel. Paired with a bit of salted vegetable (RM5), a few braised eggs (RM2), and a simple, broth-like Teochew-style porridge (RM1.50) with grains distinct from the liquid, you’ve got yourself a fine meal.
But the real depth of flavour lies in the sauce, mostly savoury and subtle, with hints of star anise, cloves, ginger, soy sauce, and more.
Thick and sticky like a glaze, it is reduced from the braising liquid into a master stock concentrate.
They’ve kept this stock alive for at least 20 years at the time of print in 2011, boiling it down and saving it after every day’s use.
That would put it close to 35 years now.
You won’t see that fact plastered all over the shop as a selling point, though. It’s simply their process, their way — a quiet process that’s been passed down and continues, uncelebrated but unwavering.
阿生潮州卤鸭 | Ah Sang Teochew Restaurant
5, Lorong Durian,
Taman Cheras, Kuala Lumpur
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 9.30am-7pm
Tel: 013-328 6688
Facebook: Ah Sang Teochew Restaurant
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and mildly self-deprecating attempts at humour.
